The journal

Written from the valley

Not destination marketing. The things we get asked repeatedly, answered at the length they actually need.

Getting there

How to reach Palampur, and which route is actually worth taking

There are four ways into the Kangra valley and they are not equal. One of them is a narrow-gauge railway built in 1929 that most visitors never hear about.

6 min read · Updated August 2026

When to come

The best time to visit Palampur, month by month

Everyone will tell you March to June. That is right for weather and wrong for the mountains — the Dhauladhar is at its most visible in the months most people avoid.

5 min read · Updated August 2026

Heritage

Baijnath: a temple that outlived the earthquake that flattened the valley

The Shiva temple at Baijnath was built in 1204 AD. In 1905 an earthquake destroyed most of Kangra district around it. The temple stayed standing.

5 min read · Updated August 2026

Choosing an area

Which side of Palampur should you sleep on?

Palampur is not one place. The difference between a room in Maranda and a room on the Bandla ridge is the difference between two separate holidays — and almost nobody explains it before you book.

6 min read · Updated August 2026

Practical

The heater question, and what a Kangra winter actually costs

Palampur gets close to freezing in January. A great many rooms in this valley are heated by a portable blower that is billed to you separately, and almost nobody says so at the point of booking.

5 min read · Updated August 2026

Bir & Billing

Bir before you fly: what the landing ground does not tell you

Bir is one of the most reliable paragliding sites in the world and one of the easiest places to lose three days to bad weather. Both facts are true, and only one of them is in the brochure.

6 min read · Updated August 2026